The beginning.
I have finally arrived and have begun to settle into my life in Asia. I got in safely after a very hectic last night in Montreal around 6:00 pm Seoul time - in other terms, 5 a.m my time. Needless to say, my brain was barely working, but there were friends around to help me get into my apartment and to even take me out for a beer at a local bar just down the street from my house, a little English place called Jacoby's. I've had a fairly warm welcome into the city, despite the fact that I am fairly overwhelmed by it all...I'm not even sure how to begin.
I live in a small 2 bedroom apartment in downtown Seoul, in a neighborhood called Haebongchon. It's quite close to a district called Itaewon, which is one of the more famous areas of the city, known mostly as the foreigners district. Taking up much of the street is the American military base, which I got a tour of. It's enormous, taking up probably 6 or 7 blocks. I almost feel bad for these soldiers, as they don't have much to do with their time. The Korean government is getting rid of the Itaewon base next year - apparently turning it into a park, which, when translated, means condos. The soldiers don't get much of a chance to involve themselves with the city, as they use American currency and have their own restaurants on the base. It's still strange, though, when I walk by and see enormous brick buildings with barbed wire at the top so close to my house. The rest of the population is made up of Nigerians, Russian prostitutes, English teachers such as myself, and, of course, Koreans. In just a few short days, from both my observations and in speaking to other people, I'd have to say that Nigerians have it the worst. Korea is technologically very advanced, but socially, they are about 50 years behind. In many ways, they hold strong racist tendencies (this is most, of course, not all). There are a few bars which have signs in the windows saying 'No Nigerians'. There is change coming, which they are feeling as Seoul gets more and more diverse. But it is one of those traditions that hangs on, sadly...Other than that, most of the English teachers are very friendly. It seems that everyone knows everyone else, one big community which is a nice thing to enter in to.
Of course, as you may well know, Seoul is disgustingly hot. It's probably 80 or so degrees (30 for you Canucks) but with the humidity the temp goes up to about 100 (40). You sweat and drink and sweat it out and drink. A neverending cycle. Of course, Asians don't sweat so they don't mind it, but it's just killing me. I have to carry a bandana around everywhere I go to wipe the sweat off my face - and it's impossible to sleep at night. Lisa, my roommate has airconditioning. I don't yet, unfortunately, but the school I'm working for is paying for a fan for me so that's my main goal for tomorrow. Koreans also believe in this thing called Fan Death - they think that the fan chops up all of the oxygen molecules, inevitably making you suffocate - so all fans come with a 1 hour timer on them. Every hour, you have to reset the fan...Of course, you can't leave the windows open, because the mosquitos will come and steal all of your blood...Made that mistake once and now I look like a chess board so I've decided it's better to just sweat it out.
I spent my first day touring around alone. Went to the Changdeokgung Palace that had once been destroyed by the Japanese but then restored in the 17th century and was the main center for 270 years. It has a secret garden in the back that is absolutely stunning, and was in fact named a UNESCO heritage spot. Absolutely gorgeous. Also went to the Deoksugung Palace, which has seen a number of Kings - most particularly King Gojong, who proclaimed Korea as the 'Great Han Empire'. It's a mix between the old and the new with a great art museum on the property. One thing that's great about Seoul is that you can be walking down one of the busiest streets in the city and walk into these old palaces that are so quiet and reserved, with beautiful gardens and trails to walk through. I love that.
I have also been in to my School, the W Institute (W for Wise and Wide, seriously). It seems nice. There are 4 Korean teachers and 3 English teachers. I'm taking over for an American teacher who is going home to try out for the CIA...We have 80 kids in total and the biggest class will probably be 6. The kids are adorable. They take on English names and they love having nicknames. One of the cutest kids, Kevin, told me he likes to be called Heavy Kevi, a name my friend and co-teacher Lisa made up for him. They're energetic and ready to learn and talk and think which is great. I start next Wednesday, and I'm nervous but I think it'll go well. The school did, of course, give me a strict dress code - no sandals, no shorts, and of course, no nose ring which did break my heart, but is something I figure I'd have to do at some point or another (it'll go back in on the weekends, however...) I have one month of summer intensives from 9-6:30 pm in August (as Koreans don't think their children should have summer relaxin', only summer studyin') then summer break (4 days), and then in the fall we teach from 3-10 pm. I was worried about having to wake up so early (as I live an hour away from the school) until I realized this morning, after finally getting over the damn jet lag, that there is a man who has a bullhorn loudspeaker who comes right next to my house at 7 a.m every morning going 'BANANASBANANASBANANAS'. Guess everyone does have to make a living.
I'm living out the monsoon season over on this side of the world. It rains every day, generally for about half the day. Weather forecasts will tell you it's going to rain - but never when it will rain - just some point during the day. And so you'll be walking down the street and a downpour will come out of nowhere, leaving you soaked until the sun comes back out and bakes you with the heat. It's an ongoing cycle that I'm struggling to get used to, in all honesty. I know I sound like I'm complaining, but you have to understand my perspective. It may be hot and sweaty and Canada, but here, weather seems to enjoy pushing itself to the extreme and watching the humans suffer under its wrath. It's definitely an adventure.
Anyway that's about it for now. I'll have more later. I have the day off tomorrow so I'm headed out to Insadong where all the artists live. Apparently there's a wicked market there and I need to spruce up my room for the next 6 months so I'm hoping they will have some good stuff for me.
