Busy Beijing

I arrived in Beijing this afternoon. I had this idea in my mind that when I got to the airport it would be this noisy, crazy mess of people running around everywhere speaking Chinese and trying to take my money. It wasn't like that at all. It was relatively quiet, really. Immigration was no problem, walked right out and got into the taxi....And then it got a bit strange.

I gave the taxi driver my information for the hostel I am staying at, a place called The Chinesebox Hostel -- which has been fantastic, but more about that later. The taxi driver had no idea where it was. It's located in the Hutong area of Beijing, which is one of the older areas comprised of tiny little alleyways. He kept calling and calling but noone was picking up and I started to sweat. I was thinking in my head that I would get dropped off on the side of the road somewhere and would be paying wayyy too much money to get to my bed. Go figure, I'm a huge worrywart and it all worked out. Eventually, he turned down some small little street and parked on the side of the tiny road -- and there it was! Two huge red doors with lion knockers and a very handsome guy came out and brought me in and got me all sorted out.

I sat down with the two guys at the front desk (I'll just say this...Chinese men are handsome) and they got me all sorted out. I told them where I wanted to go and they got together my train tickets, my airplane tickets...everything. Now I just have to figure out where I'm going to stay in all these places. Looks like I'll be staying here in Beijing until Friday. Then off to X'ian for the weekend to see the terracotta warriors. After that I'll take the train to Shanghai for one day, then fly to Hong Kong for 4 days. Then I'll come back to Shanghai for the weekend and Sunday night will take the train down to Hangzhou to see Penny for Christmas.

Yikes. Lots of translation, confusion, craziness involved in all that. But I'm pretty sure it'll be a lot of fun.

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Onwards Ho!

OLA being finished, I thought I'd share the last of my photos with my students -- my favorite students, that is.




Me, Ellia and her two friends -- the girls that I like to call "Stalker Girls" because whenever Ellia would visit me, they would always join in the fun. Luckily they were very kind :)


Ellia and I -- one of my favorite students. Very kind to everyone she met.

Robin -- aka 'Fat Cheeks'. Always happy, so happy he couldn't open his eyes! So adorable!


I don't know what happened to my face...yikes. That's Ronaldo next to me, my favorite student. So smart, so hard-working, so sweet. I know he will grow up to be a very good person. Jeff's in the back, also one of my most hardworking students and pretty good at English to boot.

Bonnie! Always did the double wave - always laughing, always happy to be studying English. Very wonderful young girl who will also go on to do good things in this world.

Those are the best of the best. Despite the fact that I am well aware they will forget me soon, I am going to miss them so incredibly much. They are great kids and I'm glad I got to take part in their education in this world.

And now...on to China! Head off to Beijing tomorrow and will let you all know how that goes....

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I'll Give You Chocolate Any Day.

I find with every day it's getting harder and harder to leave. I know I've been regaling you, probably even overloading you with tales of my students, but they keep doing all these wonderful things that I need to share with someone.

I went up for a quick meeting today with one of my students, a girl named Ellen who's going to be helping me out a lot when I return to Korea with a womens group I want to put into action (more about that later though). When I came back downstairs to the office, I was shocked to find this...



One of my old students, June, had gone out and bought a bunch of Nutrigrain bars and left them on my desk. Okay, so it's no big deal, just Nutrigrain bars, but it meant a lot to me. A few months back, my mom sent me this huge box of chocolate and I ended up giving out a lot of it to my students -- and by a lot, I mean a lot. My students basically know me as the candyman, which is fine. They do their work, they get rewarded. Some of the students thank me, some of the students hog the candy like pigs. It's a mixed basket of reward, really.

My OF7 class had been great. They used to be my favorite class. But then with one of coworkers being fired, we mixed all of the classes up and I lost them to another teacher which was really a huge disappointment. The kids in that class always said hi to me, always gave me hi-fives. They were like my kids...haha...

One of the students was a little boy by the name of Ronaldo (yes, like the soccer player). Ronaldo is by far and away my favorite student in the entire school. Ronaldo thinks that his English is not good, but whenever he comes into my class, he speaks in English for the entire 65 minutes. And his language skills have improved significantly. He has made the greatest improvement out of any student I've met in Korea. He is polite, he is kind, he is funny, he has respect for his teachers, and he  is dedicated to being a smarter, better human being. And he is not afraid to tell you that (he told me that -- he also told me that he hates stupid people. Me too, Ronaldo, me too.) Usually, in Korea, a lot of students are embarassed to talk to you on the street. They run away from you, or hide their face. Ronaldo always comes right up to me and makes a stupid face, then asks me how my day was and gives me a high five and then waves goodbye. He is awesome. I am so proud of that kid. I only wish I could meet him again in 20 years and see what he's doing then.

I also have Robin -- aka "Fat Cheeks". He has the fattest cheeks I've ever seen on a little kid. Let's imagine a squirrel here, really. It's hilarious. I've never seen Robin not smile. Always a happy little dude. So between the smiling and the fat cheeks, he can barely open his eyes. He always waves and says hello and asks me how I am. He too is so incredibly polite. I don't know how much his English has really improved -- the language is pretty difficult for him. I do know that he is one good kid, and he will continue to cheer people up for years to come.

And then there's June. June's the one who gave me the nutrigrain bars. June's the pretty boy, but again, one of the most polite kids in the school. He tries really hard. His work was always perfectly done. Whenever I ask him a question, he thinks long and hard and then replies in the best way possible. My coworkers came in and told me how he asked them all where Charlie Teacher's desk was and then left the bars there in a neat little pile. I chased him down and found him waiting outside, and told him thank you. He stuck out his hand and gave me a good handshake, which turned into us making up a secret handshake followed by a high-five. Awesome.

These are my favorite kids.

It has to be said that these kids never ask for anything from me. They never ask for chocolate or candy. They just do their thing - mainly as well because they know that if they work hard for me they will be rewarded. That's what makes it all the more amazing. They do it on their own perogative. I have a lot of other students that I basically have to beg to get to do work - and forget about chocolate. That dreamworld doesn't exist for them...Anyway, it was just nice today to get something in return. It showed a level of appreciation and maturity that just reinforced what a great kid June is.

I'm turning into a sap...

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What Almost Made Me Stay.


This is MW6. From left to right: John, Chloe, Luna, me (Charlie), Carrick, William, and Kevin in the back.

MW6 almost made me stay in Korea for another year. I almost would have done it if I could have spent every day teaching them.

Okay, it was my job to teach them -- I told them a lot of stories and got some vocabulary through to them. But in reality, they taught me -- a lot.



They taught me the joys of teaching. What it means to have a job that you feel is truly rewarding. No matter what, no matter how my day may have been going, they always put a smile on my face. Despite the fact that in actuality, their English was a lot lower then the level they had been placed in, they were still incredibly polite, interested and dedicated.

One student, Carrick, my favorite student -- the gangster in the red hoodie -- never understood a word I said. I've got to tell you a few stories about this kid, because he really won over my hard teaching heart. Often, I would tell a story, and he would laugh. I'd have to follow it up by asking Carrick, "Do you understand my man?" and he'd laugh again. And then another student, usually Luna or another girl Jinny, would translate and he'd speak in Korean for a few seconds to make sure he understood, and then would laugh even harder. I doubt anyone could keep a straight face in front of that kid.

One day, he went to get water and I was standing there with Dave, and I introduced him to Dave. He pulled up his sleeves, thrust his hand out and said in perfect English "Hello! I'm Carrick! It's nice to meet you Dave!" That's about all we got out of him. It was the most mannered moment I've seen out of a Korean student -- maybe out of any teenager -- yet.

Carrick and I worked so hard on saying, "Teacher, I have to go to the washroom, please." He got it down by the end of the semester and I was very proud of him. The week after we finished class, the teachers had to teach special mixed classes where the kids were put together by their respective public schools. Carrick was in a different class then mine - but I happened to be walking by his classroom when I suddenly heard, "Teacher, must have toilet!!!" I couldn't believe it, so I looked in to see who it was that was dying to do. It was Carrick. What an idiot. He came out of the classroom and started laughing hysterically when he saw me and then stopped and said, "Teacher, I have to go to the washroom please." I told him he could go, but only if wore the veil of shame (We've worked on that as well...if he does something stupid he has to wear the veil of shame and keep his head down the whole time...his idea, really!) I laughed to myself walking behind him the whole time...

Carrick liked to repeat things that made me laugh. On his first writing and speaking test, the question was: "If you had to go to a deserted island, what 3 things would you take with you?" Carrick answered that he would bring a knife, matches, and water. He would drink the water, use the knife to kill some animals, then start a fire with the matches and cook the animals. If he was there for more than a day, then he would get rid of his dirty clothes and just live in the animal skin. I laughed so hard when he said that...I couldn't picture this skinny little Korean soccer fan killing animals and living in bear skin. When I started laughing, he started laughing and it was downhill from there. Needless to say he did well. On his second test, the question was: "If you had to take a foreigner to any place in Korea, where would you take them?" Carrick came out all prepared and told me he would take a Canadian girl to Baekdu Mountain -- Canadian girls were tougher than other girls, he explained. They would go to Baekdu Mountain and see the sights, and if they got in trouble, Carrick would bring out his island knife and kill the animals and they could live under the skin for a very long time together. Again, hilarious. He ended the piece by saying, "Teacher, I love you!" -- Another classic.

I am so fond of Carrick. He's got a heart the size of the world and I know he'll go on to do good things.

There are other good kids in the class too. John was one of my students who, when he was telling about his favorite movie, "태국이" -- The Brotherhood of War", got so embarassed. He said that in the movie, one of the brothers sacrifices his life for his younger brother and dies. He said he started crying when that happened because his brother is always so kind to him and he know his brother would do the same thing. He also told me never to tell anyone because he wanted to be a 'tough guy'. Everytime John made a grammatical mistake, he'd hit himself in the head and get all flustered. I kept telling him that he is not stupid. On the last day of class, he came up to me as everyone was leaving and said, "Oh teacher thank you for not saying I'm stupid." It was pretty awesome, despite how small of a comment it was.

There was Anderson he's the kid all the way in the left hand corner in the 2nd picture. He was the most avid Harry Potter fan I've met to this day -- and I've met some pretty big Harry Potter fans. I asked him once whether the books or the movies were better, and he went into this long spiel about how the books were better because the images were in your head and Ron was ugly in the movie and....well, half of it was in Korean, so I didn't completely understand. But it was a whole heck of a lot of passion that I think often gets drained out of the students in exchange for a ridiculously long academic schedule, so it was really refreshing to hear him talk like that. And anyway -- when he had to write an essay about what his favorite movie is, he hemmed and hawed and ended up writing it about Harry Potter. But at the end of the essay, he included a small note that said "Sorry teacher that this is not long. I also like Michael Jackson and want to write about him but maybe next time. That is also my favorite movie." Who can say no to a kid who likes Harry Potter and Michael Jackson? Not me....


Here's Jinny...who hates English but told me she loved talking to me. She told me how she wants to drive a car so she can get far far away from schools in Seoul, but she knows if she drove a car she'd crash it. She really did hate English, was never afraid to tell me that, but somehow her English was quite good. She was always able to translate for Carrick or William when they didn't understand. She got my jokes and often made jokes at me. Whenever I told a bad joke too, she'd always go "oooh" and then give me the thumbs up. Smarty pants man...She was so adorable. She wrote me a great goodbye letter that will accompany me on my travels.

I will miss MW6 so much. They will travel around with me wherever I go for years to come. They taught me that not everyone's out to get you. That there are kids out there who are interested in hearing what adults have to say. And they reminded me that learning's not all about the book. It's about what you need to know sometimes when you're 15. That you're not cool -- but one day you probably will be cool. At least we can hope. These kids give me that hope.

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Just a few notes.



I was going through my shelf, trying to figure out which books to read on vacation and which books to trade back in to the English bookstore here in Seoul. I came across this book - Veronika Decides to Die by Paulo Coelho. I think I've avoided it in the past, as the main plot in the story revolves around a girl who tries to commit suicide and fails - and my best friend committed suicide a little more than a year ago. However, now that I have some time before I leave to sit and think about things, I realized that now was probably an appropriate time to read it. It's a fascinating read, and I highly suggest it to anyone who is looking for a thought-provoking short novella. It has quite a few good quotes that I'd like to share with you now. A lot of the questions that are brought to the forefront raise the question of what is normal and what is insane. I hope you all enjoy this...or at least think about these as much as I did.

"What did it mean to be crazy? She hadn't the slightest idea, because the word was used in a completely anarchic way. People would say, for example, that certain sportsmen were crazy because they wanted to break records, or that artists were crazy because they led such strange, insecure lives, different from the lives of normal people."

"Anyone who lives in her own world is crazy. Like schizophrenics, psychopaths, maniacs. I mean people who are different from others....You have Einstein, saying that there was no time or space, just a combination of the two. Or Columbus, insisting that on the other side of the world lay not an abyss but a continent. Or Edmund Hillary, convinced that a man could reach the top of Everest. Or the Beatles, who created an entirely different sort of music and dressed like people from another time. Those people - and thousands of others - all lived in their own world."

"Oddly enough I never used to suffer from depression on cold, gray, cloudy days like this. I felt as nature was in harmony with me, that it reflected my soul. On the other hand, when the sun appeared, the children would come out to play in the streets, and everyone was happy that it was such a lovely day, and then I would feel terrible, as if that display of exuberance in which I could not participate was somehow unfair."

"Imagine a place where people pretend to be crazy in order to do exactly what they want."

"To say good-bye. That was the really difficult part. Once in a mental hospital, a person grows used to the freedom that exists in the world of insanity and becomes addicted to it....You could cry, get worried or angry like any other normal human being, as long as you remembered that, up above, your spirit was laughing out loud at all those thorny situations."

"I'll just say that insanity is the inability to communicate your ideas. It's as if you were in a foreign country, able to see and understand everything that's going on around you but incapable of explaining what you need to know or of being helped, because you don't understand the language they speak there...And all of us, one way or another, are insane."

"We are all brought up only to love, to accept, to look for ways around things, to avoid conflict."

"Just as prison never corrects the prisoner - it only teaches him to commit more crimes - so hospitals merely got patients used to a completely unreal world, where everything was allowed and where no one had to take responsibility for their actions."

"The happier people can be, the unhappier they are."

"You say they create their own reality,' said Veronika, "but what is reality?'
   'It's whatever the majority deems it to be. It's not necessarily the best or the most logical, but it's the one     that supports the desires of society as a whole."

"Certain people, in their eagerness to construct a world no external threat can penetrate, build exaggeratedly high defenses against the outside world, against new people, new places, different experiences, and leave their inner world stripped bare. It is there that bitterness begins its irrevocable work.'

"What's dignity? It's wanting everyone to think you're good, well-behaved, full of love for your fellow man. Have some respect for nature, watch a few films about animals, and see how they fight for their own space."

"Don't confuse insanity with a loss of control."

"We've replaced nearly all of our emotions with fear."

"It was very dangerous being uninhabited in bed; there was always the fear that the other person might still be a slave to their preconceived ideas."

"An idea only exists when someone tries to put it into practice."

"God was there, and yet people believed they still had to go on looking, because it seemed to simple to accept that life was an act of faith."


"There are things in life, though, which, however we look at them, are valid for everyone. Like love, for example."


"We all live in our own world. But if you look up at the starry sky, you'll see that all the different worlds up there combine to form constellations, solar systems, galaxies."

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Maybe it's not goodbye...maybe it's just, see you later?

I've come to realize suddenly, in the last week of being in Korea, how much of a home Seoul has become for me. I am really comfortable living here, and I am really going to miss it. Despite all the phonecalls I've made, and all the times I've sat around steaming over the flack I've taken under certain circumstances in the city, I do really love it here.

I love the barbecue restaurants with the live grills in front of you, and the plastic sheets over the front doors to let the smoke out. I love the people who are loud and crazy but so unafraid to be so. I love to walk through major streets with crowds and crazy bumpers only to get to a tiny apartment at the end of a maze of twisting streets that is warm and homey and full of friends. I love the food. I love that there are always people up doing something. The lights, the sounds -- always there to remind you that life is going on around you, and maybe you should be part of it. I love the kindness, the dependency and yet the celebrity status you get just for speaking English. You can always get lost, but someone always wants to find you.

Don't get me wrong, there are things I hate. Korea is kind of like a bad relationship -- love/hate, it comes in waves, for sure. Right about now, I'm in the romantic, old hubby phase.

It's the first time I've lived somewhere and not been in school. It's the first sort of professional, adult life I've had...and I don't know if I'm really quite ready to leave it yet. I have such an amazing support network here of people of all ages and all mindsets and I love that.

Yesterday I went out for dinner with my business class -- only 4 of the students showed up, all men, interestingly. We had a fantastic time. Talked all about life at home for me, and life here for them. What I would miss (spicy food, Korean bbq, handsome men) and what I wouldn't miss (the subway, the smell of garbage, old men). What I was excited for (diners, thick rye bread, different beer) and what I wasn't excited for (...hard to say...) The Nepalese food was amazing, highly recommended if you're ever in Dongdaemun in Seoul -- a  little placed called Everest tucked away in the corner somewhere. T.S said it was very famous with foreigners, and there were a lot of foreigners there. I was just surprised because it seemed like one of those places that someone would have to introduce you to. Anyway it was delicious. I really love Indian and Neplaese food. We sat and talked for a long time. It was strange at first -- I mean, can you imagine, one white 24 year old girl with 4 older Korean businessmen. But it was great. It felt so nice to talk to them. There was no condescension involved at all. They spoke to me like a friend. And when I told them about my return to Korean in the end of December, they were all very kind and told me I could stay in their respective houses. That's one thing that I think may be a bit different in Western culture. Immediately they all offered their homes to me -- but I don't think that is as common at home..,but maybe I'm just forgetting more and more what life is like at home. I'm not sure. Anyway I will really miss them and will definitely be giving them a phonecall for another dinner when I come back between travelling.

PS. Incase you may not know, I'm going to China from December 8-December 30. Then I will return to Korea for 12 days. I want to celebrate the New Year with my girls, Habiba and Ksan, and to say goodbye one more to some of my closer friends -- yes, including this business class. Then I will leave on January 11. Not too sure where I'm going. I have a oneway ticket to Singapore...and I want to see my brother in Denmark. That's about all I got down for now. Yikes!

Anyway, the more I think about it, the more I become sure that I'll be returning to Korea for another year. I really am happy here, and I'm making money, travelling independently, and enjoying my life...all the while learning a lot about myself and my relationships with people. I'm so sure I'll come back that I'm leaving a suitcase full of stuff with my dear love Habiba.

All this to say that I'm leaving in a week, and yes I'm going travelling....but I'm pretty sad to say goodbye too.

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Make Your Own Gangsta Turkey Kids.

Coolio has been out of mainstream culture for way too long, I think. It is high time he returned, wiith a bang....

Oh, what's that you say? He's in the kitchen making turkey?

Check it out. How to make your holiday a little more "Paradise" friendly....Cooking With Coolio

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Taking Care of Business

Thursday brought the completion to one of my business classes here in Seoul. A group of middle-aged, married, and fairly conservative businessmen working for a major Korean corporation who want to learn English from....me? Oh yes, it was true, and even better, it was one of the mot fun classes I had over the past year and a half.

I mean, who can resist a student who calls himself E.T, despite being over 30?

They were great. In the beginning, some of them were nervous, and didn't feel like giving me the time of day. But over the past five months (that's it, five months, I can't believe it) we've built up a Tuesday Thursday relationship that has been quite nice, quite comforting. These men have come to be some of my greatest supporters here in Korea, reminding me what's right and what's wrong with adults, and what should and should not fly with my students in the classroom. We talk and they tell me who deserves pizza, and who deserves detention. They dole out Korean culture and I return with Western culture and together we learn. It's amazing, fascinating, and hilarious all in one. Because I never expected to see myself doing this.

At one point, one of the students, Yoon, tried to get me to go for an interview on the Korean show "Beauties", or "Beauty Chatter". Is it what you think it is?



Let's see...it's a show all in Korean, with foreign women who are (often) dressed up like Korean dolls. A panel of male Korean judges sit in front of the women and ask them all sorts of questions -- everything from, what is your favorite Korean food, to what is your most embarassing moment in Korea, and even, what do you like most about Korean men...Now the show recently got into a bout of trouble, because they recently had a guest female student on the show from Hongik University who said that men who are short -- under 180 cm, or 5'9 -- are losers. (Short Men Are Losers) One man is suing the show now for 10,000,000 won because of 'emotional damage'. Anyway, that being said, I don't really want to be on the show. My Korean's not good enough, I don't want my students hearing about my boyfriends, and in general, I'm just not Korean enough, I think. Still, it was funny to watch Yoon try to get me to go on the show. Lots of text messages there. At the end, though, he just said -- "I want to see you do well". It was so kind.

One student, T.S, had told me a story a month or so back about how he has a persimmon tree in his front yard (which, in Korea, is like having a blinking sign on your front door that says 'wealth grows here'). In case you are unfamiliar with persimmons -- they look like this:







They're sweet - though they look like a strange mix between oranges and tomatoes. Ancient Greeks used to refer to persimmons as 'the fruit of the gods'. In Korean history, it was persimmons and pears that were used as sugar when people wanted to sweeten things up. I've heard everything in the book as to how to eat these things -- bite into them, chop them into pieces, peel them and eat it with a spoon. T.S, the man who brought in the persimmons, offered a new take on it though. Apparently, I am to let the persimmons sit out for a few more days until they turn to jelly inside. Then I put them in the fridge for a day. The next day I have to take it out, core it, and then eat the rest with a spoon. More or less, it's supposed to be like a persimmon jelly. Sounds delicious. I'm going to try it and see how it goes. Though in the kitchen, I tend to have bad luck.

Anyway it was sad to say goodbye to those students. And strange to think about them having a new teacher. I keep forgetting about how rotational education really is. Students come and go, teachers come and go. I'm not quite comfortable with that aspect of the educational position I have come into for the time being -- but I think I'll have to get with it or get out sometime in the near future. Either that, or I'll become another emotional bag on the street that noone wants to hang out with.

Tomorrow, though, they're taking me out for dinner - Nepalese food in Dongdaemun, which I'm quite excited for. It should be interesting to watch their English disintegrate with the beer, while I somehow in my head convince myself that my Korean is getting better...which it most definitely, willl not be.

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Now That's A Long Night.

It is not a joke. 소주 is the devil.



Incase you don't know, 소주 (Soju) tends to be the drink of choice for most Koreans. There is a very small selection of beer available, and most of it is of poor quality. Soju, instead, is an extremely cheap version of traditional rice wine. These days, though, some companies have started a trend of substituting the rice for other starches like potato, wheat, barley, even sweet potato. Which just enforces the fact that with soju, you never know what you're going to get. Now the alcohol content is high, but not ridiculous -- 20 to 45% depending on the manufacturer. The problem is that the processing of the soju adds sugar to the contents, and that baby gives you a mean hangover the next day. Soju has given me, by far, the worst hangover I've had ever. And I've had some mean wine mornings. You can add it with beer, to create soemaek (a handy-dandy mix of the two words soju and maekju, which is Korean for beer). That makes it better -- but only by a little bit. You can also have a 폭탄주 (Poktanju) which translates literally to "Bomb Drink", where you drop a shot of soju into the glass of beer and drink it as fast as you can (ONE SHOT, ONE SHOT! as they love to say...) Needless to say, it only costs 1,200 won (oh the KRW), which is equivalent to about $1.00. Makes it incredibly difficult to say no to Soju when you're on a budget.

This leads into an important comment that must be made about Korean society.



One of the most shocking things that I have come across on a daily basis since living in Korea are blackouts. And I don't mean me blacking out. I mean men of all ages -- and sometimes women, but usually men -- passing out in the middle of the street, on top of tables, inside coffee shops, next to subways. Without a doubt, living in Seoul you will see more than 100 business men passed out somewhere that is definitely nowhere near their home. It's useless to try and get them in a cab, as they won't be able to give the taxi driver their address and furthermore, the taxidriver won't be able to haul them out when they get to the apartment. Even more furtile is to try and get them to sit up, or lie in a more comfortable clean place. Most times they're 100 pounds heavier than you and what's worse, sometimes if you wake the sleeping giant, they get PISSED. So just leave it...really. Most of these guys are just completely drunk from a Soju binge with the businessmen. It's common for them to go out and have dinner together with their buddies after work and just casually go from drinking a beer to drowning in the clear devil that is known as Soju. It's tradition, and I don't see it ending anytime soon. Anytime I go out with my Korean friends, they always get a bit flustered when I tell them I'm more into the beer -- until I finally give in, take a shot, and start riding downhill.

I'm sharing with this you not to scare you -- really, on the whole, they're completely harmless. It's just one of the most shocking things I've surprisingly become completely used to in the past year and a half of living in Korea.

Check it out. There is even a website for this. Yikes. Please be warned there are a few graphic photos in here so if you have a queasy stomach at all, I advise you not to look.

http://blackoutkorea.com/

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Book Nook 2 and Suggested Browsing.

Just about to finish Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt. Here's the shocking thing about that book. I got about 3/4 of the way through the book and suddenly realized that it's nonfiction. It's a true story but it's like a fairytale almost. Hard to believe, at least for me. I'm going to spend a better part of the next hour looking up some of the main characters in the novel as well. Oh how exciting my life is.

As for suggested reading...browsing through the newspaper, here are some of the eyepoppers, mindthunders, whatever you choose to call them (as you can see, some of my students have come up with some really good names for articles that can grab your attention :) )

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/24/us/24amigos.html?em


http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/24/opinion/24iht-edcohen.html?em

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/22/opinion/22friedman.html

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I'm going to China 2 weeks from today. Flying from here to Beijing to begin an adventure around the East coast of the country for nearly a month. The great part about it is that I get to see Penny in Hangzhou and celebrate Christmas with her. The bad part about it. Well, in reality, there is no bad part. I'm going to China. It's just that I keep reading all this bad news about China...

China, China, China....you keep getting bigger and with it comes all the unrealities: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/25/world/asia/25china.html?_r=1&ref=global-home

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Asia Asia Asia.



This is one of my favorite pictures to look at when I think of my travelling in Asia. It's nothing really. Just a menu from a Japanese restaurant I went to with my brother one night late at night in Kyoto. But still...it's that feeling, when you look at the menu and your stomach is rumbling and you just think....wow, I have no idea what this says....Shit.

It's exciting. Makes you even hungrier. But at times, a little frightening. And then, if you get what you want, it's complete satisfaction. I quite enjoy that whole adventure of it now.

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How I Like To Waste My Time (I'm Sorry Mom)





If you know him, chances are maybe you love him. If you don't know him, well...he's pretty hot.

This is Rain...Infamous for his album Rainism whose complete destruction of all forms of music I am not ashamed to admit. He is also well-known, however, for being that really beautiful Korean star who turned down Meghan Fox, the star of Transformers. No biggie, you know.



I know him better as the star of the notoriously overemotionally driven Korean drama Full House, which my dear friend Lisa got into in her pre-Korea departure phase, and which I fell in love with during the 3 week vacation (where I still had to be at work) while the students took final exams.



But most importantly, he should be known for defining what we today can proudly refer to as 'the washboard abs', and creating a fever amongst women of a diverse range of ages.

Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful 비. Enjoy.

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Racing for something other than a ribbon.

A great discovery has just been made and published in the New York Times, and it's enlightening, and yet even exciting news for the growing population of foreigners that lives day to day here in Korea. One step at a time...afterall, that ishow we got to the moon, isn't it?

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/02/world/asia/02race.html?_r=2

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Enough Argh to Brighten My Day.

After a wonderful time in Japan with my brother -- which I should explain later, but probably won't due to pure and utter laziness -- I came back to Korea and was a little disappointed with all the monotony of the people around me. I know it happens everywhere, but for some reason it seemed a lot more in my face after my visit.

BUT THEN.

Today, I was walking back to the subway in Gangnam after a morning of classes and right before walking down the stairs, I looked to my left and saw this old Korean guy. He had really long grey hair and was wearing a a wide brimmed hat with a pirate bandana wrapped around it and a wicked brown suit. Looked so out of place amongst all the richie richs running around him, but so awesome. I couldn't stop staring at him. He was smoking Marlboro Red's. And he knew I was staring at me. So he looked up and gave me this big toothy grin (but missing a few of the teeth). And I couldn't stop smiling -- he made my day.

So good. Doubt I'll ever see that guy again, but I hope he's having a great day.

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I love you, but not as much as I hate that guy.

Watching the Daily Show and was hard-pressed to stop laughing when they showed the Republicans cheering on Chicago's loss of the 2016 Olympics bid. Now I'm not one to care about the Olympics -- really, I had no idea who was even up for the Olympics until I was in a small Ryoken in Kyoto where the woman was dishing out free 'Tokyo 2016 Olympics' pins. But still, what Jon Stewart had to say was all too true. Man...the Republicans love America. But they love to hate Obama more than they love to love America. It's quite sad, when you get right down to it.

And the line between love and hate gets a little bit smaller with every passing American day...

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All Apologies

One thing I just can't seem to get over...despite the year of practicing my patience and slowing things down and letting an uncountable amount of shit that involves me go down behind the curtains...I just can't seem to get over the fact that more often than not Koreans will just do things without asking your permission, mainly because they don't speak your language.

What is so hard about just asking, may I turn off the aircon? I don't see the problem.

I'm lonely today and I think that's crawled under my skin and died. I can't wait to be off work already.

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The Reality of a Language Barrier

A rainy, blustry day finally came today in Seoul, and it was well needed. It's been about 31 degrees here for the last 3 or 4 days. Hot, hot weather where it feels hard to breathe. I don't mind summertime, but I hate such thick humidity, where the cold sweat on your forehead is even colder than the bottle of water in your head. Makes me feel like I'm in a womb of flu bacteria.

I was relaxing in my apartment this morning, enjoying the peacefulness that comes with the sound of rain, watching the movie Battle Royale (otherwise known as Batoru Rowaiaru for the Japanese cult flick fans). Must make a note on this film before digressing into the issue at the heart of this writing. I recently finished reading the original novel Battle Royale, written by Koushun Takami. Fantastic book. What with living in Asia and learning more and more everyday about the different cultures here, I really enjoyed the cynical portrayal the author took on life as a student in Japan, and the farce that is the 'dog-eat-dog' nature of the world we are all supposed to enter into. I was addicted to it, nonetheless and I highly recommend it to anyone looking for a good read. That being said, the movie was a disappointment. I felt as though the movie tried to play into the emotional connections made between students, while simultaneously trying to push some sort of political platform that was never really fleshed out. I can see why it's a 90's cult classic...but I guess I can also see why I'm not really a big follower of this train. Ah well.


To the heart of the matter. I went into the shower, and was getting clean, when I heard some noise outside the door. I looked out and the room was full of Korean business men...I think. I'm not sure, because I didn't have clothes on so I didn't stay too long.

So here's the background. In Korea, there is not a landlord for one apartment building. Each apartment is owned by a different landlord -- at least in my apartment. So at this time, my apartment is up for sale. This does not mean that I have to move. Rather, it means that there will be a new owner of the apartment. Over the last few weeks, then, many different couples and businessmen have been coming to look at the apartment. They don't stay long, just walk in, look out the window, check out the bathroom and then leave. There's some conversations in Korean, which I never really understand despite my studies, and then they bow and walk out. Okay, fine. It's a bit annoying that these visits come at all times of the day -- I've had visitors at 8:00 am, 10:30 am, 1:30 pm, even 7:00 at night on a Saturday. But it's been copasthetic so far.

Until today. I was in the shower, my door was locked, and they still entered in to my apartment. While I was in the shower, they came in, looked around, and left. That means that they have my passcode in to my apartment. And to walk a step further, they can (and may have already) enter my apartment at any time, even if I am not in the premises. And I am NOT comfortable with that. I am not comfortable with people coming in and out of my apartment whenever they feel like it. When talking to one of my Korean friends, Kate, she said that normally they would call the person in the apartment and forewarn them of their arrival. However, in this case, as they could not speak English, they decided to wave this step and just come to my apartment without notice.

This is the reality of the language barrier that foreigners are too often forced to face when living in Korea. I have found that, in most situations, I can make do with what little language I do know, or carve an exit strategy for myself. But this was too far. It is one thing to have miscommunication, or in reality, a complete lack of communication at your hagwon, in your teaching environment. But to choose silence over struggle when it comes to my home is in another ballpark. A park where I am pissed. There is no reason why anyone should ever come barging into my home without warning. It would take no more than 3 minutes to call my phone and let me know that someone was coming. To have the security guard give me a note to let me know someone was coming. To warn me. But now my house has been invaded. I feel uncomfortable in an already foreign city.

I don't know why. Maybe it is my fault. But it just seems to get more and more frustrating with every day that passes.

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Little People Offer Big Things

This was so well put, and such a honest description of Koreans that I thought I should share it with you. It is a reflection on the country life of Koreans, as he walks along Route 1 from the small village of Naju to Gwangju (the fifth biggest city in Korea).

"The life of the urban Korean was changing with unprecedented rapidity, without a doubt; but out here, far from the influences of city life, the ancient, Confucian rhythms were being preserved - and the economic simplicities that went with them. Poor villages - no one ever hungry but no one with a compact-disc player, either - are strung along the length and breadth of Korea, and within them are hundreds of thousands of ordinary Koreans for whom the goal of middle-class British life is not only unattainable but also profoundly undesirable. It would be condescending to say that the Koreans are a people who admire what some writers about India call the 'dignity of poverty'. Quite the reverse: the Koreans are an ambitious, hardworking people, perhaps more hardworking than any I have ever encountered and ever will. They want to improve their lot. They want, desperately, to improve their children's lot. They will work all the hours God gives them to provide a good education for their offspring - no sacrifice is too much for a Korean father to make, no hours too long for a Korean mother to work, if only the child is well educated, is given a better chance, a better series of opportunities.

But at the same time there are those Koreans, both old and young - and the fact that young Koreans are included is important - who have as a conscious ambition a desire to preserve the essence of their lives and are thoughtful enough to care to resist the seductive charms of change....The Koreans - not all of them, by a long chalk, but many - seem to feel the same way. They know that Seoul is only a few hours away and there is chromium and glass and glitter and money and power there, and they appreciate the magnetism of it all. but they know also that what they have in these small villages - and yes, they also have electricity and direct-dial telephones, and I know one man in a thatched cottage who keeps a facsimile machine next to his kimchi pots - is as worth preserving as the modern world is worth exploring. Perhaps, I thought, I would meet someone along the road who would explain it more succinctly."

-- Simon Winchester Korea; A Walk Through the Land of Miracles

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Tired.

I still find it strange that in a city so big, I can often feel so alone. Today I do not want to be at work. I want to be at home, tucked away under the covers, letting my brain rest. I'm tired of socializing, I'm tired of talking and thinking and doing. I just want to rest.

Each day's a new day. It's time for a change.

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A Wish to Build A Life On.



While sitting having coffee with Eunjung this afternoon, I was reminded of a story that had slipped entirely to the back of my mind. She was telling me of how over the period of three years, she had gone to temples and built many 돌탑 -- small stone pagodas that you build and make a wish on; if it falls over while you are building it, then your wish will not come true. She wished to go overseas to Canada or the U.S.A. Three years later, her wish came true and she travelled through India and parts of Southern Asia, and then moved to Boston for a year. Though it seems hard to believe, she told me that she would like to think that the 돌탑 had something to do with the wish coming true.

When Charlie passed away, I spent a week in shock meandering around Seoul, trying to come terms with death and the way that I felt about my path and my actions at that time. The very next weekend, I headed down with a group of other unknown foreigners to Gyeongju City, in Gyeongsangbuk-do. It was a beautiful adventure, as the mountains were covered in a wild spread of reds and oranges and yellows. My mind was for once peacefully quiet, enjoying the absence of honking and drunken screaming. The highlight of the trip, however, was our visit to Bulguksa Temple, a beautiful working temple on the side of a mountain at the outskirts of the city. I trekked through the temple grounds, looked on as several monks followed through in prostrations, took in the solitude that I felt in all of it. I know he would have loved to have seen something like that in his short but very spiritual lifetime. At the back of the temple was a huge pagoda garden, with hundreds of 돌탑 built by visitors to the temple over the years. The monks had brought out more rocks for the newcomers, so I sorted through and picked out a handful of what seemed like strong rocks and started building. I built three or four 돌탑, knelt down and made a long, strong wish for Charlie's peace, and for my own peace. All I wanted was to be able to move forward with peace in both of our lives.

It's been nearly 7 months now, and I'm starting to believe that perhaps my wish is coming true. It's still in the makings, but I do believe I'm beginning to come to terms with such emotions as stability and contentment in my life. I used to find Korea so strange, an almost vast wasteland which I would never consider my home. Charlie's death had a huge part in making this country feel so uncomfortable. With time, though, I now find myself walking down the streets not even noticing how different I probably am from many of the people beside me. I don't imagine life at home. I don't know what it would be like, but I guess it doesn't matter, as I just don't think about it. I do strongly dislike my job, but the time that I spend outside of the workplace makes up for all those ugly feelings.

Ju has been an enormous help in all of this. It's strange, but I feel as though in just one month, he has become one of my best friends. I trust him. I can laugh easily, and loudly with him. I share stories that I don't feel comfortable telling other people. Silence is not wasted when I am with him, it is enjoyed. He is by far the most easy-going, down to earth, friendly Korean guy I have met since first arriving here. I can't help but feel like there's some element of fate involved in all of this. I got back from Japan, stunned by how amazing and outgoing and unafraid all of my brother's Japanese family were, only to meet Ju. I didn't feel like going to volunteer at a children's center, but I gave it a chance -- and it gave something back to me. Ju gives me that same sort of joy that I felt while in Japan. That it's okay to be me. In fact, that he wants me to be nothing else but me. It's given me a whole new outlook on Korea. I am so glad to have him as a friend. On Sunday, I went out to Shitaewon to play some pool and have some drinks with he and a friend of his, another English teacher by the name of Gary -- hilarious dude from Austin, Texas. Gary reminds me of everyone I hung out with when I was 17. Just a downright, dirty, free spirited travelling man who kept saying 'It's your choice, my friend'. Except he's in his forties (I think) and has been living in Korea for 15 years so he's got a lot of information to offer me. Anyway we were talking and he too agreed that Ju is one of his best friends here. Interestingly enough, the biggest compliment I heard from him was that there were actually very few people out there who he wanted to genuinely teach -- but Ju was a person who he wanted to share and teach everything to. As I told Ju afterwards, you're a lucky person if you have one guy like that on your side, always promoting your goodness. Anyway, I felt at home that night. Two guy who just got it. It's been awhile (Lis) since I felt like someone really got it.

I go to the gym now. I'm not a gym person. But there is something to be said for going to the gym. It gives me energy, it definitely improves my spirits. I'm trying to aim for three to four times a week. I never imagined myself doing that but I am now, and I'm really happy about it. I can feel my body changing, and it's been too long of a wait for that to happen. I volunteer at a low-income children's center. I was definitely hesitant at first, didn't want to give up my time, freedom and energy to teach more English. But I love the students, I get the feeling maybe they even like me too, and I enjoy giving back to people. It's a lot better of a way, for me, to spend my Saturdays -- rather then sleeping the day away. I've met many new Korean friends in the last few weeks, through International Friends Day and through volunteering and whatnot. I've got many people to hang out with and to help me start a life here in Korea. I have something to do all the time -- whether it be to go to a concert, or do a barefoot marathon, or pick up trash in the park with kids. It feels good to be busy, and not party busy, but real work. This is what I have been looking for for a long time. Satisfaction is completely underrated.

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Addictions Start Young

My job is tough. I'm starting to realize that as I inch closer to celebrating a year anniversary since I first came to this country to teach English. At my school, my classes are wholly made up of younger, immature students who are either lazy, uninterested or only just beginning their studies in the English language. I'm still somewhat unsure as to how I got assigned to these classes. I know that there are multiple factors at work here -- as I am the only permanent female middle school teacher, I know I am expected to be more of a nurturing caregiver, therefore somehow more willing to do a larger portion of babysitting. When I questioned my boss as to why I was being assigned these classes, she said it was because I had more energy than the other teachers and thus would be able to handle these more wild, energetic students. These are only some of the reasons. I'm struggling though, finding it difficult each day to command some sort of respect from these students. Granted, I can tell that they probably only understand about 30% of what I say and teach to them. Still, half of the time when I ask them questions in English, they respond in Korean, and in almost every class I have to write answers on the board to make sure that they take down correct answers -- more or less so I know that they will have something appropriate written down to show their enthusiastic parents. I'm exhausted these days, and find it a challenge to go to work. My Korean co-teacher, a lovely woman who works so hard with little to no appreciation, is quitting soon. I can feel it. And I'm beginning to feel the same way. A sort of hopeless cloud surrounds my desk and I try to push it off but at the end of the day, when I clock out at 11 pm and walk home, I just feel so useless. Anyone could do this job, and it wouldn't matter. The students would leave exactly as how they entered, no smarter, if not just a little bit stupider.

Today in one of my higher level classes, GR1, my students spent the entire class looking at me blankly. They held no qualms in telling me how boring the class was -- despite the fact that I always give them time to study for their tests at the end of the class, despite the fact that I play games with them and give them chocolate bars if they win, and I too often turn a blind eye to their speaking in Korean and their fucking around in class. Still, beyond all that, they hemmed and hawed and sighed and complained. If it had been any other foreign teacher they would have been in hot water. But instead I gave up. I let them study for the rest of class and used the time to try and figure out new ways to teach the lesson for my next class. But I was really upset at this.

In the last five minutes of this interminable class, I kneeled down to speak with one student, Jinny, who I've had for 2 semesters now. As she looked upset, I asked her what was wrong. She said she was tired because she didn't have her coffee that day. She told me she has at least 1 or 2 coffees a day. She's 14. She goes to bed at 2 and wakes up at 6:30 every day. She's 14 and she gets 4 and a half hours of sleep.

I'm just so frustrated. I'm upset because I don't know how people can let this go on, how people can appreciate this and truly believe that their children, the leaders of the future are living the best possible lifestyle, one that somehow will inevitably lead to some form of success and satisfaction (or perhaps early deaths and mid-life breakdowns). I want to change it so badly, I want to make a difference. But the system is just too big, too engrained within the world here. It's like drowning. I can't give too much of myself anymore. I have to repress my passion to make a change, because it just doesn't matter. And that breaks my heart.

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A Day of Sharing

This weekend has been quiet. Relaxingly, peacefully quiet. I needed that. Some time to process who I am and how I'm changing -- and everything that comes wrapped up in all of that. It was nice.

One thing though. On this crisp Sunday afternoon, I joined my friends Habiba, K'san and their respective boys on a trip to the Jogesya Buddhist temple near Insadong for a screening of the documentary film 63 Years On. Put on by the Sharing House of Korea, it was a powerful tribute to the women who were forced into sexual slavery by the Japanese government from the 1930's on into World War II.

There is so much that I should, and need to recount about what I have learned today in becoming part of this community, one with those who are moving together to demand emotional compensation and peace for those who suffered at the hands of the military.

Prior to World War II, it had been found that a large percentage of members of the Japanese military were suffering from various STD's. As the nation prepared to expand and conquer land across the Asian continent, it became clear that the government would have to establish a system that would allow soldiers to engage in healthy and yet still stimulating sexual intercourse. The first 'comfort station' was opened in 1932 in China. It is said that the first women to work at the station were Japanese prostitutes. But Japanese expansionism worked faster than expected, and before long there were comfort stations all across Asia -- from the Philippines to Indonesia to Laos and Cambodia to Korea and Japan -- and there were simply not enough prostitutes to provide for the soldiers. So the government turned to the streets and kidnapped women, often bribing them with the hope for better money to support their families, only to force them into these sexual stations.

The film showed the stories of 5 different women who were victims of this tragedy. One was from Korea -- she had scars all over her body from where Japanese soldiers had tortured her when she had tried to run away. She admitted on camera that she had been pregnant, and the soldiers had tried to beat the baby out of her, blaming her for getting pregnant. In order to prevent further pregnancies, they removed her uterus. Then they seared her breasts and used a cattle iron on her back and bum. She spoke out in both fear and anger. She had been lucky enough to not only survive through that, but as well to meet a good man who married her and made a family with her. Due to the beatings, she was unable to have children, and so she adopted. It was years before she returned to Korea, however.

Another story was from a Dutch woman who had been living in Indonesia with her family. She was taken away by the Japanese military when she was a teenager. She kept going back to the first night she was brought to the comfort station. She was raped not once but at least 3 or 4 times by different soldiers. Such information was not unusual either -- many of the women who were kept at such camps were forced to have sex with as many as twenty to forty men a day.

She shared a shocking story about the doctor who came to their camp. The women were subjected at random moments to visit the doctor, so as to ensure they were STD-free. Her story began by reminding us how much trust we put in doctors -- they are healers, the ones who, in the very least, work to make it better, make the pain go away. Unfortunately, this was not true for her. The doctor examined her with the doors and windows open, inviting the Japanese soldiers to look on. Upon finishing his check-up, he then raped her. There was noone to trust.

The Dutch woman had wanted to be a nun when she was a child, but after being a sexual slave to the Japanese military, she knew she could never follow that dream. She married, but admitted that she could never enjoy sex again -- even with her husband.

There are so many more stories. They said that it is estimated 200,000 women were put into these comfort stations, and many of them did not make it out alive. Those who did were abandoned at the end of the war. Many Korean women were left in countries such as the Philippines, with no knowledge of the language or the culture and no idea where to even begin in rebuilding some semblance of a life for themselves. It was years upon years -- 1991, when the first woman, what they now call 'Grandmothers' -- Grandma Kim Hak Soon, came out and publicly talked about what she and so many others had undergone. It has been a slow and painful process, but other such victims have stood up and created a movement pushing for the Japanese government to apologize. THEY HAVE NOT. In 2007, the prime minister Shinzo Abe denied that these women had been forced into sexual enslavement. The education minister at the time had much of the information about such women erased from textbooks. The U.S and Canada both approved motions urging the Japanese government to make a formal apology. But little to nothing has been done by the Japanese government and so these grandmothers continue fighting, hoping that they will find peace before their passing.

It was pure trickery that seeped out of the WWII Japanese government. The argument behind comfort stations was that men of the military needed to have some form of pleasure in order to quell their rebellious attitudes. The government even provided condoms, labelled as 'Attack 1 condoms', and lubrication. From the outside, it all looked like another ordinary brothel system that would only help to make the Japanese army stronger and happier than all others.

It hurts for me to even write about it. These women suffered through our worst nightmares. I am so fortunate to be so far away from anything like this. There is now a home for these women here in Korea -- a place called the Sharing House. As the grandmothers grow older, it has become harder and harder for them to share their stories. Their message will live on forever though. The people, including myself -- the community who gathered today -- now have their stories engrained within their hearts and these women will never be forgotten.

A volunteer who put together the screening asked that these women not be called 'Comfort Women' anymore -- because nothing that they experienced was comfortable. These women are to be called grandmothers, or survivors. I respect that absolutely.

We live in a modern world, but this nightmare has not passed. Sexual trafficking is still a major problem. As one volunteer quoted, there are some countries where it is believed that 1 in 4 women will be subjected to sexual trafficking. There is so much to be done. Demanding for an apology for the grandmothers is just a step.

Being there today, with the men and women who both cried and raised a fist against the treatment of these women, made me realize how much work there is to be done. We must look back at the past and change the future starting now. There are resources, but we must stop teaching how to use them in a negative light and starting practicing in the positive.

I really want to save the world.

http://www.nanum.org/eng/index.html

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좋은 날을 보내십시오

Back in Korean classes. Again. Learning the Korean alphabet. Again. Major deja vu, which makes me wonder if something bad is going to happen in just a short amount of time. I feel that lightening can only strike once a year on your heart though, so I'm crossing my fingers I'll be protected through the summer. I'm on a Korean language kick, though, which is exciting as I haven't really been interested in studying or pursuing it at all over the last few months. Suddenly I'm looking through vocabulary and finding extra books to study in at night, listening to podcasts and using whatever I can get off the tip of my tongue that somehow seems right. I'm proud of myself for making an effort again. It's easy the first time, but the second time around is like walking with a broken knee. Just keep shaking until you heal and regrow. (Does that make sense at all?)

In other news, after a whirlwind round of shopping with Jenn - wherein we both decided that we have never been such materialistic spenders since living in this country - she finally gave in, and we are going to the gym, starting next week. It's a big decision for me. I'm not a gym person. But as my mom always told me, it's best to find a friend to go to the gym with. The gym (at least for me) just doesn't seem to be one of those solo places. Particularly in a country where you don't speak their language -- YET. I'm excited to start the process of getting into shape. It's been a long time coming, and I think my body really needs it. It will definitely make me feel a lot better about myself. But it will suck...Oh how it will suck the first week.

That's all for now. Not very interesting, but somehow I still feel FAR too busy and my life seems overwhelmingly filled with things to do. I like it that way. Today, I am satisfied.

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Book Nook 1.

What I'm reading right now: "The Omnivore's Dilemma; A Natural History of Four Meals" by Michael Pollan.

Lent to me by a friend. We'll see how it goes.

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THE LIST. Part 1.

I do not have the patience this very moment to sit down and write about every adventure I have had since being in Korea, nor do I have the attention-span to delve into my experiences and feelings and reasons why I have pursued life in Korea. So instead, I will make a list of all the things I need to write about over time, a reference point to go by. Slowly but surely (hopefully) I will cover each...thus making a good attempt at understanding everything that I see and having something to look back upon when I decide to rejoin middle-America. Here we go then...

1. Bowling in Korea

2. Cherry Blossom Festival

3. Baseball Games (LG Twins)

4. Ullengdo

5. DMZ Trip 1 vs. DMZ Trip 2 (Cherwon)

6. Lantern Festival, Buddha's Birthday

7. Knowing that you are the only visible white person in a sea of Koreans.

8. Thailand -- Chiang Mai in all of it's greatness

9. Japan - Kanazawa and the party that made my day there.

10. Noraebong

11. Cooking Class with the Seoul Global Center

12. Volunteering at the Low Income Children's Center

13. Tutoring in Korea

14. Shopping in Myeongdong (Remember that day when Mr. Pizza threw free stuff off the rooftops)

15. Barefoot Marathon

16. Birthdays in Korea

17. Baby Shower with Sunny

18. International Women's Day

19. Eating dinners with Habiba

20. Learning Korean (Lynn)

21. Lunches with David

22. Drinking with the staff of Ola.

23. Sports Day Ola 2009

24. Making friends with Koreans : How I became an expert on Asian friendships.

25. The yellow buses of Ola lining up in front of the school.

26. English teachers and the problems of containment.

That's it for now, though I know there's more.

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