Just a few notes.
I've come to realize suddenly, in the last week of being in Korea, how much of a home Seoul has become for me. I am really comfortable living here, and I am really going to miss it. Despite all the phonecalls I've made, and all the times I've sat around steaming over the flack I've taken under certain circumstances in the city, I do really love it here.
I love the barbecue restaurants with the live grills in front of you, and the plastic sheets over the front doors to let the smoke out. I love the people who are loud and crazy but so unafraid to be so. I love to walk through major streets with crowds and crazy bumpers only to get to a tiny apartment at the end of a maze of twisting streets that is warm and homey and full of friends. I love the food. I love that there are always people up doing something. The lights, the sounds -- always there to remind you that life is going on around you, and maybe you should be part of it. I love the kindness, the dependency and yet the celebrity status you get just for speaking English. You can always get lost, but someone always wants to find you.
Don't get me wrong, there are things I hate. Korea is kind of like a bad relationship -- love/hate, it comes in waves, for sure. Right about now, I'm in the romantic, old hubby phase.
It's the first time I've lived somewhere and not been in school. It's the first sort of professional, adult life I've had...and I don't know if I'm really quite ready to leave it yet. I have such an amazing support network here of people of all ages and all mindsets and I love that.
Yesterday I went out for dinner with my business class -- only 4 of the students showed up, all men, interestingly. We had a fantastic time. Talked all about life at home for me, and life here for them. What I would miss (spicy food, Korean bbq, handsome men) and what I wouldn't miss (the subway, the smell of garbage, old men). What I was excited for (diners, thick rye bread, different beer) and what I wasn't excited for (...hard to say...) The Nepalese food was amazing, highly recommended if you're ever in Dongdaemun in Seoul -- a little placed called Everest tucked away in the corner somewhere. T.S said it was very famous with foreigners, and there were a lot of foreigners there. I was just surprised because it seemed like one of those places that someone would have to introduce you to. Anyway it was delicious. I really love Indian and Neplaese food. We sat and talked for a long time. It was strange at first -- I mean, can you imagine, one white 24 year old girl with 4 older Korean businessmen. But it was great. It felt so nice to talk to them. There was no condescension involved at all. They spoke to me like a friend. And when I told them about my return to Korean in the end of December, they were all very kind and told me I could stay in their respective houses. That's one thing that I think may be a bit different in Western culture. Immediately they all offered their homes to me -- but I don't think that is as common at home..,but maybe I'm just forgetting more and more what life is like at home. I'm not sure. Anyway I will really miss them and will definitely be giving them a phonecall for another dinner when I come back between travelling.
PS. Incase you may not know, I'm going to China from December 8-December 30. Then I will return to Korea for 12 days. I want to celebrate the New Year with my girls, Habiba and Ksan, and to say goodbye one more to some of my closer friends -- yes, including this business class. Then I will leave on January 11. Not too sure where I'm going. I have a oneway ticket to Singapore...and I want to see my brother in Denmark. That's about all I got down for now. Yikes!
Anyway, the more I think about it, the more I become sure that I'll be returning to Korea for another year. I really am happy here, and I'm making money, travelling independently, and enjoying my life...all the while learning a lot about myself and my relationships with people. I'm so sure I'll come back that I'm leaving a suitcase full of stuff with my dear love Habiba.
All this to say that I'm leaving in a week, and yes I'm going travelling....but I'm pretty sad to say goodbye too.
Coolio has been out of mainstream culture for way too long, I think. It is high time he returned, wiith a bang....
Oh, what's that you say? He's in the kitchen making turkey?
Check it out. How to make your holiday a little more "Paradise" friendly....Cooking With Coolio
Thursday brought the completion to one of my business classes here in Seoul. A group of middle-aged, married, and fairly conservative businessmen working for a major Korean corporation who want to learn English from....me? Oh yes, it was true, and even better, it was one of the mot fun classes I had over the past year and a half.
I mean, who can resist a student who calls himself E.T, despite being over 30?
They were great. In the beginning, some of them were nervous, and didn't feel like giving me the time of day. But over the past five months (that's it, five months, I can't believe it) we've built up a Tuesday Thursday relationship that has been quite nice, quite comforting. These men have come to be some of my greatest supporters here in Korea, reminding me what's right and what's wrong with adults, and what should and should not fly with my students in the classroom. We talk and they tell me who deserves pizza, and who deserves detention. They dole out Korean culture and I return with Western culture and together we learn. It's amazing, fascinating, and hilarious all in one. Because I never expected to see myself doing this.
At one point, one of the students, Yoon, tried to get me to go for an interview on the Korean show "Beauties", or "Beauty Chatter". Is it what you think it is?
It is not a joke. 소주 is the devil.
Incase you don't know, 소주 (Soju) tends to be the drink of choice for most Koreans. There is a very small selection of beer available, and most of it is of poor quality. Soju, instead, is an extremely cheap version of traditional rice wine. These days, though, some companies have started a trend of substituting the rice for other starches like potato, wheat, barley, even sweet potato. Which just enforces the fact that with soju, you never know what you're going to get. Now the alcohol content is high, but not ridiculous -- 20 to 45% depending on the manufacturer. The problem is that the processing of the soju adds sugar to the contents, and that baby gives you a mean hangover the next day. Soju has given me, by far, the worst hangover I've had ever. And I've had some mean wine mornings. You can add it with beer, to create soemaek (a handy-dandy mix of the two words soju and maekju, which is Korean for beer). That makes it better -- but only by a little bit. You can also have a 폭탄주 (Poktanju) which translates literally to "Bomb Drink", where you drop a shot of soju into the glass of beer and drink it as fast as you can (ONE SHOT, ONE SHOT! as they love to say...) Needless to say, it only costs 1,200 won (oh the KRW), which is equivalent to about $1.00. Makes it incredibly difficult to say no to Soju when you're on a budget.
This leads into an important comment that must be made about Korean society.
One of the most shocking things that I have come across on a daily basis since living in Korea are blackouts. And I don't mean me blacking out. I mean men of all ages -- and sometimes women, but usually men -- passing out in the middle of the street, on top of tables, inside coffee shops, next to subways. Without a doubt, living in Seoul you will see more than 100 business men passed out somewhere that is definitely nowhere near their home. It's useless to try and get them in a cab, as they won't be able to give the taxi driver their address and furthermore, the taxidriver won't be able to haul them out when they get to the apartment. Even more furtile is to try and get them to sit up, or lie in a more comfortable clean place. Most times they're 100 pounds heavier than you and what's worse, sometimes if you wake the sleeping giant, they get PISSED. So just leave it...really. Most of these guys are just completely drunk from a Soju binge with the businessmen. It's common for them to go out and have dinner together with their buddies after work and just casually go from drinking a beer to drowning in the clear devil that is known as Soju. It's tradition, and I don't see it ending anytime soon. Anytime I go out with my Korean friends, they always get a bit flustered when I tell them I'm more into the beer -- until I finally give in, take a shot, and start riding downhill.
I'm sharing with this you not to scare you -- really, on the whole, they're completely harmless. It's just one of the most shocking things I've surprisingly become completely used to in the past year and a half of living in Korea.
Check it out. There is even a website for this. Yikes. Please be warned there are a few graphic photos in here so if you have a queasy stomach at all, I advise you not to look.
http://blackoutkorea.com/
Just about to finish Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt. Here's the shocking thing about that book. I got about 3/4 of the way through the book and suddenly realized that it's nonfiction. It's a true story but it's like a fairytale almost. Hard to believe, at least for me. I'm going to spend a better part of the next hour looking up some of the main characters in the novel as well. Oh how exciting my life is.
As for suggested reading...browsing through the newspaper, here are some of the eyepoppers, mindthunders, whatever you choose to call them (as you can see, some of my students have come up with some really good names for articles that can grab your attention :) )
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/24/us/24amigos.html?em
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/24/opinion/24iht-edcohen.html?em
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/22/opinion/22friedman.html
I'm going to China 2 weeks from today. Flying from here to Beijing to begin an adventure around the East coast of the country for nearly a month. The great part about it is that I get to see Penny in Hangzhou and celebrate Christmas with her. The bad part about it. Well, in reality, there is no bad part. I'm going to China. It's just that I keep reading all this bad news about China...
China, China, China....you keep getting bigger and with it comes all the unrealities: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/25/world/asia/25china.html?_r=1&ref=global-home

This is one of my favorite pictures to look at when I think of my travelling in Asia. It's nothing really. Just a menu from a Japanese restaurant I went to with my brother one night late at night in Kyoto. But still...it's that feeling, when you look at the menu and your stomach is rumbling and you just think....wow, I have no idea what this says....Shit.
It's exciting. Makes you even hungrier. But at times, a little frightening. And then, if you get what you want, it's complete satisfaction. I quite enjoy that whole adventure of it now.

If you know him, chances are maybe you love him. If you don't know him, well...he's pretty hot.
This is Rain...Infamous for his album Rainism whose complete destruction of all forms of music I am not ashamed to admit. He is also well-known, however, for being that really beautiful Korean star who turned down Meghan Fox, the star of Transformers. No biggie, you know.
I know him better as the star of the notoriously overemotionally driven Korean drama Full House, which my dear friend Lisa got into in her pre-Korea departure phase, and which I fell in love with during the 3 week vacation (where I still had to be at work) while the students took final exams.
But most importantly, he should be known for defining what we today can proudly refer to as 'the washboard abs', and creating a fever amongst women of a diverse range of ages.
Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful 비. Enjoy.
A great discovery has just been made and published in the New York Times, and it's enlightening, and yet even exciting news for the growing population of foreigners that lives day to day here in Korea. One step at a time...afterall, that ishow we got to the moon, isn't it?
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/02/world/asia/02race.html?_r=2
