What Almost Made Me Stay.


This is MW6. From left to right: John, Chloe, Luna, me (Charlie), Carrick, William, and Kevin in the back.

MW6 almost made me stay in Korea for another year. I almost would have done it if I could have spent every day teaching them.

Okay, it was my job to teach them -- I told them a lot of stories and got some vocabulary through to them. But in reality, they taught me -- a lot.



They taught me the joys of teaching. What it means to have a job that you feel is truly rewarding. No matter what, no matter how my day may have been going, they always put a smile on my face. Despite the fact that in actuality, their English was a lot lower then the level they had been placed in, they were still incredibly polite, interested and dedicated.

One student, Carrick, my favorite student -- the gangster in the red hoodie -- never understood a word I said. I've got to tell you a few stories about this kid, because he really won over my hard teaching heart. Often, I would tell a story, and he would laugh. I'd have to follow it up by asking Carrick, "Do you understand my man?" and he'd laugh again. And then another student, usually Luna or another girl Jinny, would translate and he'd speak in Korean for a few seconds to make sure he understood, and then would laugh even harder. I doubt anyone could keep a straight face in front of that kid.

One day, he went to get water and I was standing there with Dave, and I introduced him to Dave. He pulled up his sleeves, thrust his hand out and said in perfect English "Hello! I'm Carrick! It's nice to meet you Dave!" That's about all we got out of him. It was the most mannered moment I've seen out of a Korean student -- maybe out of any teenager -- yet.

Carrick and I worked so hard on saying, "Teacher, I have to go to the washroom, please." He got it down by the end of the semester and I was very proud of him. The week after we finished class, the teachers had to teach special mixed classes where the kids were put together by their respective public schools. Carrick was in a different class then mine - but I happened to be walking by his classroom when I suddenly heard, "Teacher, must have toilet!!!" I couldn't believe it, so I looked in to see who it was that was dying to do. It was Carrick. What an idiot. He came out of the classroom and started laughing hysterically when he saw me and then stopped and said, "Teacher, I have to go to the washroom please." I told him he could go, but only if wore the veil of shame (We've worked on that as well...if he does something stupid he has to wear the veil of shame and keep his head down the whole time...his idea, really!) I laughed to myself walking behind him the whole time...

Carrick liked to repeat things that made me laugh. On his first writing and speaking test, the question was: "If you had to go to a deserted island, what 3 things would you take with you?" Carrick answered that he would bring a knife, matches, and water. He would drink the water, use the knife to kill some animals, then start a fire with the matches and cook the animals. If he was there for more than a day, then he would get rid of his dirty clothes and just live in the animal skin. I laughed so hard when he said that...I couldn't picture this skinny little Korean soccer fan killing animals and living in bear skin. When I started laughing, he started laughing and it was downhill from there. Needless to say he did well. On his second test, the question was: "If you had to take a foreigner to any place in Korea, where would you take them?" Carrick came out all prepared and told me he would take a Canadian girl to Baekdu Mountain -- Canadian girls were tougher than other girls, he explained. They would go to Baekdu Mountain and see the sights, and if they got in trouble, Carrick would bring out his island knife and kill the animals and they could live under the skin for a very long time together. Again, hilarious. He ended the piece by saying, "Teacher, I love you!" -- Another classic.

I am so fond of Carrick. He's got a heart the size of the world and I know he'll go on to do good things.

There are other good kids in the class too. John was one of my students who, when he was telling about his favorite movie, "태국이" -- The Brotherhood of War", got so embarassed. He said that in the movie, one of the brothers sacrifices his life for his younger brother and dies. He said he started crying when that happened because his brother is always so kind to him and he know his brother would do the same thing. He also told me never to tell anyone because he wanted to be a 'tough guy'. Everytime John made a grammatical mistake, he'd hit himself in the head and get all flustered. I kept telling him that he is not stupid. On the last day of class, he came up to me as everyone was leaving and said, "Oh teacher thank you for not saying I'm stupid." It was pretty awesome, despite how small of a comment it was.

There was Anderson he's the kid all the way in the left hand corner in the 2nd picture. He was the most avid Harry Potter fan I've met to this day -- and I've met some pretty big Harry Potter fans. I asked him once whether the books or the movies were better, and he went into this long spiel about how the books were better because the images were in your head and Ron was ugly in the movie and....well, half of it was in Korean, so I didn't completely understand. But it was a whole heck of a lot of passion that I think often gets drained out of the students in exchange for a ridiculously long academic schedule, so it was really refreshing to hear him talk like that. And anyway -- when he had to write an essay about what his favorite movie is, he hemmed and hawed and ended up writing it about Harry Potter. But at the end of the essay, he included a small note that said "Sorry teacher that this is not long. I also like Michael Jackson and want to write about him but maybe next time. That is also my favorite movie." Who can say no to a kid who likes Harry Potter and Michael Jackson? Not me....


Here's Jinny...who hates English but told me she loved talking to me. She told me how she wants to drive a car so she can get far far away from schools in Seoul, but she knows if she drove a car she'd crash it. She really did hate English, was never afraid to tell me that, but somehow her English was quite good. She was always able to translate for Carrick or William when they didn't understand. She got my jokes and often made jokes at me. Whenever I told a bad joke too, she'd always go "oooh" and then give me the thumbs up. Smarty pants man...She was so adorable. She wrote me a great goodbye letter that will accompany me on my travels.

I will miss MW6 so much. They will travel around with me wherever I go for years to come. They taught me that not everyone's out to get you. That there are kids out there who are interested in hearing what adults have to say. And they reminded me that learning's not all about the book. It's about what you need to know sometimes when you're 15. That you're not cool -- but one day you probably will be cool. At least we can hope. These kids give me that hope.

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Just a few notes.



I was going through my shelf, trying to figure out which books to read on vacation and which books to trade back in to the English bookstore here in Seoul. I came across this book - Veronika Decides to Die by Paulo Coelho. I think I've avoided it in the past, as the main plot in the story revolves around a girl who tries to commit suicide and fails - and my best friend committed suicide a little more than a year ago. However, now that I have some time before I leave to sit and think about things, I realized that now was probably an appropriate time to read it. It's a fascinating read, and I highly suggest it to anyone who is looking for a thought-provoking short novella. It has quite a few good quotes that I'd like to share with you now. A lot of the questions that are brought to the forefront raise the question of what is normal and what is insane. I hope you all enjoy this...or at least think about these as much as I did.

"What did it mean to be crazy? She hadn't the slightest idea, because the word was used in a completely anarchic way. People would say, for example, that certain sportsmen were crazy because they wanted to break records, or that artists were crazy because they led such strange, insecure lives, different from the lives of normal people."

"Anyone who lives in her own world is crazy. Like schizophrenics, psychopaths, maniacs. I mean people who are different from others....You have Einstein, saying that there was no time or space, just a combination of the two. Or Columbus, insisting that on the other side of the world lay not an abyss but a continent. Or Edmund Hillary, convinced that a man could reach the top of Everest. Or the Beatles, who created an entirely different sort of music and dressed like people from another time. Those people - and thousands of others - all lived in their own world."

"Oddly enough I never used to suffer from depression on cold, gray, cloudy days like this. I felt as nature was in harmony with me, that it reflected my soul. On the other hand, when the sun appeared, the children would come out to play in the streets, and everyone was happy that it was such a lovely day, and then I would feel terrible, as if that display of exuberance in which I could not participate was somehow unfair."

"Imagine a place where people pretend to be crazy in order to do exactly what they want."

"To say good-bye. That was the really difficult part. Once in a mental hospital, a person grows used to the freedom that exists in the world of insanity and becomes addicted to it....You could cry, get worried or angry like any other normal human being, as long as you remembered that, up above, your spirit was laughing out loud at all those thorny situations."

"I'll just say that insanity is the inability to communicate your ideas. It's as if you were in a foreign country, able to see and understand everything that's going on around you but incapable of explaining what you need to know or of being helped, because you don't understand the language they speak there...And all of us, one way or another, are insane."

"We are all brought up only to love, to accept, to look for ways around things, to avoid conflict."

"Just as prison never corrects the prisoner - it only teaches him to commit more crimes - so hospitals merely got patients used to a completely unreal world, where everything was allowed and where no one had to take responsibility for their actions."

"The happier people can be, the unhappier they are."

"You say they create their own reality,' said Veronika, "but what is reality?'
   'It's whatever the majority deems it to be. It's not necessarily the best or the most logical, but it's the one     that supports the desires of society as a whole."

"Certain people, in their eagerness to construct a world no external threat can penetrate, build exaggeratedly high defenses against the outside world, against new people, new places, different experiences, and leave their inner world stripped bare. It is there that bitterness begins its irrevocable work.'

"What's dignity? It's wanting everyone to think you're good, well-behaved, full of love for your fellow man. Have some respect for nature, watch a few films about animals, and see how they fight for their own space."

"Don't confuse insanity with a loss of control."

"We've replaced nearly all of our emotions with fear."

"It was very dangerous being uninhabited in bed; there was always the fear that the other person might still be a slave to their preconceived ideas."

"An idea only exists when someone tries to put it into practice."

"God was there, and yet people believed they still had to go on looking, because it seemed to simple to accept that life was an act of faith."


"There are things in life, though, which, however we look at them, are valid for everyone. Like love, for example."


"We all live in our own world. But if you look up at the starry sky, you'll see that all the different worlds up there combine to form constellations, solar systems, galaxies."

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Maybe it's not goodbye...maybe it's just, see you later?

I've come to realize suddenly, in the last week of being in Korea, how much of a home Seoul has become for me. I am really comfortable living here, and I am really going to miss it. Despite all the phonecalls I've made, and all the times I've sat around steaming over the flack I've taken under certain circumstances in the city, I do really love it here.

I love the barbecue restaurants with the live grills in front of you, and the plastic sheets over the front doors to let the smoke out. I love the people who are loud and crazy but so unafraid to be so. I love to walk through major streets with crowds and crazy bumpers only to get to a tiny apartment at the end of a maze of twisting streets that is warm and homey and full of friends. I love the food. I love that there are always people up doing something. The lights, the sounds -- always there to remind you that life is going on around you, and maybe you should be part of it. I love the kindness, the dependency and yet the celebrity status you get just for speaking English. You can always get lost, but someone always wants to find you.

Don't get me wrong, there are things I hate. Korea is kind of like a bad relationship -- love/hate, it comes in waves, for sure. Right about now, I'm in the romantic, old hubby phase.

It's the first time I've lived somewhere and not been in school. It's the first sort of professional, adult life I've had...and I don't know if I'm really quite ready to leave it yet. I have such an amazing support network here of people of all ages and all mindsets and I love that.

Yesterday I went out for dinner with my business class -- only 4 of the students showed up, all men, interestingly. We had a fantastic time. Talked all about life at home for me, and life here for them. What I would miss (spicy food, Korean bbq, handsome men) and what I wouldn't miss (the subway, the smell of garbage, old men). What I was excited for (diners, thick rye bread, different beer) and what I wasn't excited for (...hard to say...) The Nepalese food was amazing, highly recommended if you're ever in Dongdaemun in Seoul -- a  little placed called Everest tucked away in the corner somewhere. T.S said it was very famous with foreigners, and there were a lot of foreigners there. I was just surprised because it seemed like one of those places that someone would have to introduce you to. Anyway it was delicious. I really love Indian and Neplaese food. We sat and talked for a long time. It was strange at first -- I mean, can you imagine, one white 24 year old girl with 4 older Korean businessmen. But it was great. It felt so nice to talk to them. There was no condescension involved at all. They spoke to me like a friend. And when I told them about my return to Korean in the end of December, they were all very kind and told me I could stay in their respective houses. That's one thing that I think may be a bit different in Western culture. Immediately they all offered their homes to me -- but I don't think that is as common at home..,but maybe I'm just forgetting more and more what life is like at home. I'm not sure. Anyway I will really miss them and will definitely be giving them a phonecall for another dinner when I come back between travelling.

PS. Incase you may not know, I'm going to China from December 8-December 30. Then I will return to Korea for 12 days. I want to celebrate the New Year with my girls, Habiba and Ksan, and to say goodbye one more to some of my closer friends -- yes, including this business class. Then I will leave on January 11. Not too sure where I'm going. I have a oneway ticket to Singapore...and I want to see my brother in Denmark. That's about all I got down for now. Yikes!

Anyway, the more I think about it, the more I become sure that I'll be returning to Korea for another year. I really am happy here, and I'm making money, travelling independently, and enjoying my life...all the while learning a lot about myself and my relationships with people. I'm so sure I'll come back that I'm leaving a suitcase full of stuff with my dear love Habiba.

All this to say that I'm leaving in a week, and yes I'm going travelling....but I'm pretty sad to say goodbye too.

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Make Your Own Gangsta Turkey Kids.

Coolio has been out of mainstream culture for way too long, I think. It is high time he returned, wiith a bang....

Oh, what's that you say? He's in the kitchen making turkey?

Check it out. How to make your holiday a little more "Paradise" friendly....Cooking With Coolio

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Taking Care of Business

Thursday brought the completion to one of my business classes here in Seoul. A group of middle-aged, married, and fairly conservative businessmen working for a major Korean corporation who want to learn English from....me? Oh yes, it was true, and even better, it was one of the mot fun classes I had over the past year and a half.

I mean, who can resist a student who calls himself E.T, despite being over 30?

They were great. In the beginning, some of them were nervous, and didn't feel like giving me the time of day. But over the past five months (that's it, five months, I can't believe it) we've built up a Tuesday Thursday relationship that has been quite nice, quite comforting. These men have come to be some of my greatest supporters here in Korea, reminding me what's right and what's wrong with adults, and what should and should not fly with my students in the classroom. We talk and they tell me who deserves pizza, and who deserves detention. They dole out Korean culture and I return with Western culture and together we learn. It's amazing, fascinating, and hilarious all in one. Because I never expected to see myself doing this.

At one point, one of the students, Yoon, tried to get me to go for an interview on the Korean show "Beauties", or "Beauty Chatter". Is it what you think it is?



Let's see...it's a show all in Korean, with foreign women who are (often) dressed up like Korean dolls. A panel of male Korean judges sit in front of the women and ask them all sorts of questions -- everything from, what is your favorite Korean food, to what is your most embarassing moment in Korea, and even, what do you like most about Korean men...Now the show recently got into a bout of trouble, because they recently had a guest female student on the show from Hongik University who said that men who are short -- under 180 cm, or 5'9 -- are losers. (Short Men Are Losers) One man is suing the show now for 10,000,000 won because of 'emotional damage'. Anyway, that being said, I don't really want to be on the show. My Korean's not good enough, I don't want my students hearing about my boyfriends, and in general, I'm just not Korean enough, I think. Still, it was funny to watch Yoon try to get me to go on the show. Lots of text messages there. At the end, though, he just said -- "I want to see you do well". It was so kind.

One student, T.S, had told me a story a month or so back about how he has a persimmon tree in his front yard (which, in Korea, is like having a blinking sign on your front door that says 'wealth grows here'). In case you are unfamiliar with persimmons -- they look like this:







They're sweet - though they look like a strange mix between oranges and tomatoes. Ancient Greeks used to refer to persimmons as 'the fruit of the gods'. In Korean history, it was persimmons and pears that were used as sugar when people wanted to sweeten things up. I've heard everything in the book as to how to eat these things -- bite into them, chop them into pieces, peel them and eat it with a spoon. T.S, the man who brought in the persimmons, offered a new take on it though. Apparently, I am to let the persimmons sit out for a few more days until they turn to jelly inside. Then I put them in the fridge for a day. The next day I have to take it out, core it, and then eat the rest with a spoon. More or less, it's supposed to be like a persimmon jelly. Sounds delicious. I'm going to try it and see how it goes. Though in the kitchen, I tend to have bad luck.

Anyway it was sad to say goodbye to those students. And strange to think about them having a new teacher. I keep forgetting about how rotational education really is. Students come and go, teachers come and go. I'm not quite comfortable with that aspect of the educational position I have come into for the time being -- but I think I'll have to get with it or get out sometime in the near future. Either that, or I'll become another emotional bag on the street that noone wants to hang out with.

Tomorrow, though, they're taking me out for dinner - Nepalese food in Dongdaemun, which I'm quite excited for. It should be interesting to watch their English disintegrate with the beer, while I somehow in my head convince myself that my Korean is getting better...which it most definitely, willl not be.

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Now That's A Long Night.

It is not a joke. 소주 is the devil.



Incase you don't know, 소주 (Soju) tends to be the drink of choice for most Koreans. There is a very small selection of beer available, and most of it is of poor quality. Soju, instead, is an extremely cheap version of traditional rice wine. These days, though, some companies have started a trend of substituting the rice for other starches like potato, wheat, barley, even sweet potato. Which just enforces the fact that with soju, you never know what you're going to get. Now the alcohol content is high, but not ridiculous -- 20 to 45% depending on the manufacturer. The problem is that the processing of the soju adds sugar to the contents, and that baby gives you a mean hangover the next day. Soju has given me, by far, the worst hangover I've had ever. And I've had some mean wine mornings. You can add it with beer, to create soemaek (a handy-dandy mix of the two words soju and maekju, which is Korean for beer). That makes it better -- but only by a little bit. You can also have a 폭탄주 (Poktanju) which translates literally to "Bomb Drink", where you drop a shot of soju into the glass of beer and drink it as fast as you can (ONE SHOT, ONE SHOT! as they love to say...) Needless to say, it only costs 1,200 won (oh the KRW), which is equivalent to about $1.00. Makes it incredibly difficult to say no to Soju when you're on a budget.

This leads into an important comment that must be made about Korean society.



One of the most shocking things that I have come across on a daily basis since living in Korea are blackouts. And I don't mean me blacking out. I mean men of all ages -- and sometimes women, but usually men -- passing out in the middle of the street, on top of tables, inside coffee shops, next to subways. Without a doubt, living in Seoul you will see more than 100 business men passed out somewhere that is definitely nowhere near their home. It's useless to try and get them in a cab, as they won't be able to give the taxi driver their address and furthermore, the taxidriver won't be able to haul them out when they get to the apartment. Even more furtile is to try and get them to sit up, or lie in a more comfortable clean place. Most times they're 100 pounds heavier than you and what's worse, sometimes if you wake the sleeping giant, they get PISSED. So just leave it...really. Most of these guys are just completely drunk from a Soju binge with the businessmen. It's common for them to go out and have dinner together with their buddies after work and just casually go from drinking a beer to drowning in the clear devil that is known as Soju. It's tradition, and I don't see it ending anytime soon. Anytime I go out with my Korean friends, they always get a bit flustered when I tell them I'm more into the beer -- until I finally give in, take a shot, and start riding downhill.

I'm sharing with this you not to scare you -- really, on the whole, they're completely harmless. It's just one of the most shocking things I've surprisingly become completely used to in the past year and a half of living in Korea.

Check it out. There is even a website for this. Yikes. Please be warned there are a few graphic photos in here so if you have a queasy stomach at all, I advise you not to look.

http://blackoutkorea.com/

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS

Book Nook 2 and Suggested Browsing.

Just about to finish Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt. Here's the shocking thing about that book. I got about 3/4 of the way through the book and suddenly realized that it's nonfiction. It's a true story but it's like a fairytale almost. Hard to believe, at least for me. I'm going to spend a better part of the next hour looking up some of the main characters in the novel as well. Oh how exciting my life is.

As for suggested reading...browsing through the newspaper, here are some of the eyepoppers, mindthunders, whatever you choose to call them (as you can see, some of my students have come up with some really good names for articles that can grab your attention :) )

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/24/us/24amigos.html?em


http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/24/opinion/24iht-edcohen.html?em

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/22/opinion/22friedman.html

  • Digg
  • Del.icio.us
  • StumbleUpon
  • Reddit
  • Twitter
  • RSS